Monday, February 27, 2012

Paradise!

Last night I got back from Ihla Grande, a beautiful ISLAND (no big deal) off the coast of Rio.

But, first I need to talk about the paradise that was an ORGANIC VEGETARIAN ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT BUFFET that Haley and I discovered today. I was starting to become convinced that Brazilians just like to poison themselves everyday, and was painfully letting my food groups stray from whole grains, vegetables, fruits, etc. towards azucar, queijo, e carne (sugar, cheese, and meat). As it turns out, eating healthy, just like consent (as I learned at carnaval), can seem like a Berkeley luxury.

Today was a new day! Haley, Sam Koch, Mackenzie, Justin, and I embarked down a narrow hallway, where we came upon a marble buddha fountain in a misty foyer. A mahogany staircase floated us upwards, spiraling towards a feast of foods forgotten. Avocado halves as vessels for vegetables and tofu. Zucchini noodles. Squash piled high. Spinach packed injera rolls. Grainy rice with black beans, funky mushrooms, and 'meat'balls interspersed with sesame seeds. Banana, fig, and brazil nut dessert sushi. A 'tranquil sounds of nature' soundtrack lulling me into a food coma, and I realize I'm stuffed silly for the first time in Brasil, which is otherwise a normal occurrence for me. And all for 18 reais, which is like $11. Ohhh baby.

Ihla Grande. Last Wednesday night, Haley and I went to capoeira in 'fantasia,' which is costumes for carnaval. Afterwards we went out with some of the capoeiristas, which is always fun until it gets exhausting. Which is fast for me with all the trying to understand and speak portuguese and drinking only beer when I just want water and foood. When we get back at 4AM, Haley checks her facebook and sees that one of her friends organized a trip to Ilha Grande, which is off the coast of Rio. They're meeting up in 3 hours, but we decide 'vale a pena' (it's worth it) because it was a good deal for a 4-day escape from the exhausting (both vehicular and pace of life) Rio. And we'll be on an ISLAND. So we get a wink of sleep, clean the house until it looked like carnaval never happened, pack, and meet up with a goofy, eclectic group of kids in Haley's program. With Bob, our still-bitter-about-losing-Survivor-12-years-ago guide and Annapoala, his smokin-hot-tattooed-perpetually-high-maniacally-laughing wife, 14 of us go to Angra dos Reis, where we then take a boat to the island. Oh, and there is also this 'camera-man' that is afraid of the water. On the boat I ask him 'Todo bom?' (Everything good?) And he just says 'No.' Poor guy. He turns out to be an interesting character who wants nothing to do with any of us and awkwardly films us when we're eating. And it's frustrating because we can tell he's a cool, or at least interesting guy. Justin overheard him talking to these really friendly physics teachers we met, and he said 'In real life I know no one, but on the internet I'm huge!' Huh.

The next morning I watched the sunrise (epic), and then we ate crackers, corn flakes, jelly, rice pudding, chocolate milk, and IOWASCA for a breakfast of champions of sorts. Iowasca, Bob explains, is a special tea made by shamans that you take when you have a special question or are looking to be healed. He says we can drink some as long as we have no ghosts, and only a little so we don't vom. I was mostly confident that I didn't have any ghosts, so I had a few sips. Then about half the group and I set off on a longer hike than the rest of the group/guides wanted to do. I never had any spiritual epiphanies, but the day was beautiful and filled with pit stops at beach coves, navigating around huge spiders in their elaborate webs, rock scramblin', rugged rainforest, ascensions, descensions, etc. By the end of the day, I was exhausted, hungry, and slightly moody. Bob had given us snack packs that consisted of sugar cookies, candy, and sugar-coated granola bars that weren't doing much for me. But there's something to be said about not always having all of your needs satisfied, I've decided. It's like yoga, where you have to breathe through 'powerful pose' and other uncomfortable positions before your 'final savasana,' simply lying down, can be absurdly wonderful and appreciated. Being sleep-deprived, kind of sick, hungry, and trucking along drenched in sweat for a day leading to a deeply felt appreciation for my usual existence, which is underlied by comfort and convenience, is the same idea. We finally got back to camp at 7 that night, and ate some damn good beans and rice with farofa. Then we had a campfire where we talked to this guy named Chico. I asked, 'Que significa su camiseta?' And he said MST, which turns out to be a really cool-sounding political group that's focused on rural land reform and addressing income inequality. Plus they're part of Via Campesina! Which is an awesome international movement that is big on family-farm-based sustainable ag and empowering rural and indigenous communities etc. How 'bout that :)

K, I think that's all that needs to be said about Ilha Grande. Except the next day we went to a surreal beach that had sifted flour sand and I played capoeira with Annapoala. And there was this beautiful African family and the husband and wife made the most beautiful jewelry that I can't remember why I didn't buy. Oh yeah, cuz I'm spending reais like it's going out of style.

Even after drinking the miraculous agua de coco, I am spent and need to go to sleep. Amandoim (means Peanut and is the nickname of the beautiful black man who instructs capo when Nestor isn't there; when he plays, I'm pretty sure I can feel the entire circle orgasm) WORKED us. Spending about an hour on your hands before actually playing is muitas dificile, and this is coming from a girl who spent a good part of her early years in a handstand.

Boa noite!








Monday, February 20, 2012

More Carnaval and Good People and Portuguese...

Today we went to a Beatles bloco! It was cool to know the words for once, plus we hung out with Sam Koch. I love that kid! He's one of those people that you're sort of friends with in real life (this isn't real life right now), but you're not close for no reason in particular besides being closer to other people, and then when you're in a surreal situation like being in Brasil at carnaval together you're the bestest of buds.

Other than that we've been hanging out mostly with Leah from Berkeley, Michelle from Santa Cruz, and Cindy. All really cool people that I'm glad are in Haley's program. Us ladies have been hanging out pre and post-bloco at Haley's apartment, making delicioso bebidas, and then pizzas and whipping through guarana (the popular soda here) and water-that's-more-expensive-than-guarana.

And what's exciting is that I'm starting to know a few basic verbs and feel like there's a chance I might get the gist of what people are talking about. K, here goes me listing my words so far so I can remember them:

-obrigada = thank you
-desculpe = sorry
-tchau = bye (the kiss kiss kind)
-nao = no (brazilians don't like to say it)
- eu nao falo portugues = i don't speak portuguese
-todo bem/todo bom = everything good? or yup, everythings good
-muita prazer = nice to meet you
- eu trento = i try
- olhos = eyes
-eu entendo nada, todo = i understand nothing, everthing
-todo mundo = everyone
-muitas = very
-grande = big
-agora = now
-comidas = food
-subway = the brazilian food of choice, no joke
-compra = to buy
-onde = where
-tenho (tenyo) = I have, tem = you have, he/she has. temos = we have
-delicioso = delicious
-ai se eu te pego = Hey, if I catch you
-assim voce me mata = you're killing me
-noce = wow or we
-legal = cool
-serio = serious?
-escola = school
-se rolar = to have sex
-use camisinha = use a condom
-se diriger = to drive
-cervesa = beer
-cachasa = stuff that makes you crazy drunk
-cerca = near
-banheiro = bathroom
-como se chama? = what's your name?
-beijar = to kiss
-poder = to be able to
-posso? = can I?
-chutar = to kick
-antes/depois = before/after
-dia, semana, mes, ano = day week month year
-lugar = place
- ciencia cognitiva = cog sci
- filosofia, neurociencia, psicologia, linguistica = philosophy, neuro, pysch, ling
-misto = mix
- fazer = to do
- gostar = to like
- amar = to love
- estudar = to study
- melhor = better
- quente/frio = hot/cold
-chapeu = hat
- fantasia = costume

phew! maybe that's not exactly blog material, but if anyone wants to learn some portuguese, there you have some basics.


Saturday, February 18, 2012

Day 1 Carnaval!

Hola! I was conflicted about whether or not I should have a blog, just write in my journal, or both while I'm abroad. But I figured that while I usually write just for me, the wonderful people that are ever so curious about what I'm up to in cool places like Rio, Lima, Cuzco, etc. might want in on my journal entries (perhaps that's just a self-centered thought). Either way, I'm taking it to the interweb! Keep in mind this is mostly a journal for me, and I'm not trying to think about writing for an audience. But anyone is welcome to humor me and read!

Even though I hardly understand a word of portuguese and I'm Haley's weird mute friend that smiles and says 'Ola!' and 'Si!,' I must say Rio is treating me quite wonderfully.

Things I'm appreciating/getting used to:

-Old people party and are all about staying up late and chilling with young people.

-Guys are very forward...Me: No falo portuguese (I don't speak portuguese). Brasilian Guys: Ah ingles! Where are you from? You are beautiful, can I kees you. (If you say no, they kees you anyway, tongue and all. lovely)

-I sweat out my body weight in water every day, but people here drink more beer than water. Maybe because you have to pay for water, whaaa? And you pay to use a lot of bathrooms, at least during carnaval.

-I'm really grateful that I can speak even just one language well, and can't wait until I can have actual conversations in spanish. It kinda sucks never knowing what's going on here. When I don't know what's going on (all the time), I say 'Eu nao entendo nada, desculpe' (which would seem similiar to spanish, but pronounced way crazier, and means I understand nothing, sorry)

-Thank god for capoeira! I've only been once, but the maestro here is WONDERFUL. Exhibit A of the afore-mentioned old people. His name is Nestor, and speaks pretty good English so I got to talk to him a lot when we all went out after capoeira. We talked about: capoeira-travel-love-sex-mushrooms-books. But anyway, the capo itself felt SO GOOD to get back into. My body very much agrees with capoeira. Also, we did something I've never done before where everyone holds 2 sticks and does this dance (however you want) following this beat where on the 4th count, you hit another person's right stick with your right stick. I love how flamboyant the guys are here with their dancing.

-People own their sexy bodies. I've never seen so much cleavage and booty shorts strutted around by women/girls of all ages. And the men are shirtless every chance they get, flexing their muscles all over the place. People walk around like, Yup, I am a sexy fuck.

-I got the brazilian wax thing done (ouch, i think hippie liz here depleted Brasil's wax supply), but I still don't think I can handle wearing a thong swimsuit because my 'bumbum' has never seen the light of day and would burn to a crisp.

-K, let's talk about carnaval. EPIC! Sweaty people jam-packed into streets, shoving, shuffling, dancing along in ridiculous heat, people in the blocos (middle of the street, 'blocked' off by a rope that people just come in and out of) walking on stilts, drum circles, other instruments. You wonder how you don't fall down and get stampeded, but somehow everyone keeps everyone standing. And there are even the crazies in the blocos that carry their babies on their shoulders. The best way to describe the experience is one of vibrant colors, rhythms, and sweaty bodies.

I think my next post will be me trying to catalogue the few portuguese words/phrases I've learned so I can maybe have a shot at improving my communication. Which might be kinda dry for people to read, sorry!

Tchau!